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Kit C shown. Your kit contents may vary.
Tools Needed:
- ⅜ & ½” Ratchets with 12” Extensions
- 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm Sockets
- 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm Wrenches
- Loctite
- Cutoff Wheel
- Welder
- Grinder
- Plasma Cutter
- Paint Pen
- Tape Measure
- Floor Jack and Jack Stands
- Hammer
- Level
- Straight Edge
- Punch
- C-Clamps (2)
- Gasket Scraper
- Drill & 5/16” Drill Bit (2.4 Engines Only)
- Allen Set
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Pliers
- (2) Qts Power Steering Fluid
Installation Notes:
- 1. Read all instructions completely and carefully before you begin.
2. This build is so in-depth that not every step could be covered in these instructions. If anything is not clear, please call our tech support before proceeding. We have trained technicians waiting to help you.
3. Check to make sure the kit is complete and that no parts are missing. If anything is missing, please contact Trail-Gear at (559) 252-4950.
4. Park vehicle on a clean, dry, at, level surface and block the tires so the vehicle can not roll in either direction.
Installation Instructions:
1. Remove front bumper, skid plate, and splash guards.
2. On vehicles with a 3.4L V6 engine that have a radiator
that hangs below the frame like shown, you will need to
replace the radiator with the following part numbers.
(Performance Radiator #1774, Napa # APD 2740)
3. Mark the edge of the radiator for future use.
4. Remove the radiator.
5. Unbolt and remove all IFS components.
6. Mark the body mount as close to the weld as possible.
7. Cut the body mount along the previously drawn line
and grind the weld down. You want an approximately
1/4” gap between the frame and the edge of the
mounting bracket when finished.
8. Cut the inner support plate of the body mount 1/2 of the
way in.
9. Slide front hanger mount onto the frame rails. Mount
hanger locating jig to the body mount and slide it all
the way forward.
10. Use a straight edge to ensure that the mount is flush
with the jig.
11. Make sure the mount is square and straight to the truck.
12. Tack the mount in place. Verify the mount is still straight
and weld it completely.
13. Weld the area shown below.
14. Weld the areas shown below.
15. Cut the brake line tab off as shown for future use.
16. After all of the other brackets have been unbolted or
removed, brackets 1, 2, 3, and 4 will need to be
removed with a torch or plasma cutter.
17. Grind the frame clean.
18. If you have a 2.7L engine, start here to remove the oil
pan. If you have a 3.4L engine, skip to step 36.
Remove the dust shield.
19. Remove the oil pan.
20. Remove dipstick bracket hardware.
21. Remove the stock dipstick.
22. Apply Ultra Grey to bottom of freeze plug.
23. Place freeze plug in stock dipstick hole.
24. Lightly tap freeze plug to secure it into place.
25. Locate the small freeze plug approximately 2” behind
motor mount.
26. Using a punch, remove the freeze plug.
27. Install the new dipstick tube into the block using ultra
grey at the mating surface.
28. Mark and drill a hole in the motor mount bracket to
mount the dipstick tube. We drilled a 5/16” hole and
used an 8mm bolt.
29. Fasten the dipstick tube to the motor mount.
30. Remove the stock strainer and install the new one.
31. Using a razor, clean the oil pan mating surface on the
block.
32. Apply a bead of ultra grey to the oil pan mating
surface.
33. Install the new oil pan. The strainer now sits towards
the back of the truck.
34. Re-install the dust shield.
35. Install the drain plug with gasket.
36. If you have a 3.4L engine, follow these instructions to
replace your oil pan. Remove dust shield.
37. Remove the oil pan.
38. Remove the stock strainer and replace it with the new
one.
39. Using a razor, clean the oil pan mating surface on the
block.
40. Mark the stock dipstick 1/8” below the full line and cut
off the excess. The stock full level on the dipstick will
still be used and 6 1/2 quarts of oil are used.
41. Re-install the dip stick into the block.
42. Apply a bead of ultra grey to the oil pan mating surface.
43. Install the new oil pan. The strainer now sits towards
the back of the truck.
44. Re-install the dust shield. The circled bolt will need to
be shortened by 3/8”.
45. Install the drain plug with gasket.
46. Weld off the body mount
47. If you have a 3.4L motor, remove the O2 sensor above
resonator and follow step 48, otherwise, skip to step 49.
48. Remove the resonator to give yourself room to cut
out the frame rail for the shackle mount.
49. The body mount modification is located under the floorboard
for the shackle mount. Mark 2 1/4” up from the bottom of
the front side of the body mount bracket. Mark 2 1/2” from
the outside of the body mount towards the centered of the
body mount. Follow factory edge and draw lines as shown.
50. Cut along the lines and remove the bracket as shown.
Grind the frame clean.
51. Measure from the inside of the face of the front hanger
mount 45 7/8” and mark the frame. The mark should be
in the center of the big hole in the template. Align the
frame jig as shown with the large hole facing the
outside of the vehicle. Make sure the rear of the jig is in
contact with the frame. Tack weld it in place.
52. A small gap between the frame and the front of the jig
is normal due to frame curvature.
53. Mark the frame through the holes in the bottom of the jig.
54. Outline the jig on the inside of the frame as shown.
55. Cut the larger hole on the outside of the frame with the jig in
place with a hole saw or plasma cutter and then remove the jig.
56. Use a straight edge to connect the lines made with the
jig like the image below.
57. Cut the frame with a plasma cutter along the inside of
the line, clean slag off of the frame.
58. Cut the internal frame support to be flush with the
previous cut and grind clean.
59. Remove the brake line clip from the frame on the
driver’s side above the shackle location.
60. Install shackles into the shackle mount and clamp
into frame with alignment bar installed to make sure
the shackles are square. Make sure the shackles are
29” center to center. Note: Manual transmissions can
run the alignment tube through shackle box mount.
61. Below is an example of incorrect fitment. Notice the mount
sticking out below the frame.
62. Below is the correct fitment of the mount. Notice how
the bottom of the mount is even and almost flush
against the bottom of the frame.
63. Below is an example of incorrect fitment. The shackles
need to be parallel.
64. Below is the correct fitment of the shackles. Notice how
they are parallel.
65. Once the shackles are straight and at the correct
distance apart (29” center of shackle to center of
shackle), tack weld the tube into the frame.
66. Once the shackle mount is tacked into the frame,
clamp the support plate to the frame and tack it into
place.
67. Weld the support plate to the frame.
68. Remove poly bushing and weld the shackle tube to the
frame.
69. Install the shackle mount boxing bracket on top of the
shackle mount and weld it into place.
70. Weld the shackle mount to the bottom of the frame.
71. Grind the weld smooth.
72. Place the bottom frame support bracket on the bottom of
the frame and tack the rear portion to the frame.
73. Clamp the front portion of the support to the frame to
form it to the frame curve and tack it into place.
74. Finish welding the bottom support plate.
75. For 3” springs we recommend starting off with the
front hanger 44 1/2” from the shackle bolt center to
bolt center and move it approximately 3/8” forward for
4” springs and 3/4” forward for 5” springs. Note, these
are only recommendations to verify location.
76. Tack weld the spring hanger into place, centering it
upon the mount.
77. Install springs and axle. Place the weight of the vehicle on
the springs to ensure proper shackle angle is achieved. We
recommend a 90° shackle angle during initial setup to allow
for spring break-in. If so, move to step XXX, if not, take the
weight of of the springs and move the hanger to achieve
desired shackle angle. Once correct, move to step XXX.
78. With weight still on springs, clamp the steering box in
desired location and mark the front hole.
79. Make sure the tie rod and drag link will not make contact
when the vehicle flexes.
80. Clamp the frame plate the the frame, centering it on the
frame and aligning it with the previously marked hole.
81. Using the frame plate as a template.Drill the 2 marked
holes in the frame to 1/2”. Be sure to drill straight
through both sides of the frame.
82. On the inside of the frame only, drill holes to 3/4” to
allow the sleeves to be installed in the frame.
83. Install (3) 1/2” bolts through the previously drilled holes. Install sleeves over bolts and inner frame plate as shown.
84. Tack weld the inner frame plate and sleeves in place.
85. Tack weld the frame plate to the frame and then weld in
sections to avoid frame warping. At this time you can
also weld off inner frame plate and sleeves.
86. On the passenger side, position and clamp the frame
plates to the frame, aligning the rectangle hole and
centering the rest of the place on the frame.
87. You may want to plug weld the frame holes shown.
88. Tack weld the frame plate to the frame and remove the
clamps.
89. We recommend welding the frame plate onto the
frame in steps, allowing the frame to cool to prevent
warping. First, weld the frame plate inner holes.
90. Next, weld the front and rear and the angled section of
the frame plate to the frame.
91. Finish welding the frame plate to the frame.
92. Mark the inner fender well as shown in the picture
below. Be careful not to cut out the pinch weld.
93. Cut the inner fender well along the previously marked
cut lines.
94. Set the vehicle on jack stands and install shock hoops
and shocks. At ride height, shock should be centered in
shock hoop and perpindicular to the floor, not slanted
forwards or backwards.
94. Continued
95. Install shock hoop support tubes.
96. During full extension of the suspension it is normal for
the shock to angle forward slightly because the shackle
allows the axle to swing forward.
97. Weld previously cut brake line tab to frame as shown.
98. Tack weld the body mount gussets into place.
99. Fully weld the body mount gussets to the frame and
body mount bracket.
100. Flex the truck until the springs are nearly flat in the front
passenger corner. Place the bump stop extension
against the frame. Center it with the bump stop and
mark the frame and extension. Some trimming of the
bump stop extension may be required.
101. Weld the bump stop extension to the frame.
102. At this point, all welding should be completed. You can
now paint the frame and raw metal parts as desired.
103. Install the IFS steering box.
104. Remove the steering shaft dust cover located behind the
brake pedal.
105. Remove the steering shaft and coupler from the column.
106. Remove the seal housing from the firewall.
107. Remove the seal from the seal housing.
108. Install the factory seal from your seal housing into the
supplied seal housing. Paint the housing.
109. Install the seal housing into the firewall.
110. Install the supplied steering box coupler to the supplied
steering shaft. Tighten long set screw to make a mark on
shaft. Remove the coupler.
111. Using the previously made mark, drill one side of the
shaft out to 3/8”.
112. Once the hole is drilled, install the coupler using red
loctite on the set screws.
113. Loosen the set screw to allow for adjustment.
114. Slide the steering shaft through the seal housing and
install to the new coupler and column as shown. Make
sure to use red loctite on all set screws.
114. Continued - Note: 95.5 Tacoma steering shafts are a different spline
and size than 96-04. Because of this, when installing the
steering joint in a 95.5, you will get a 9/16” x 3/4”
double-d steering joint. The 9/16” end will have no
splines, this is the side of the steering joint that you will
put over the splined section of your steering rod.
Use the set screw to make the same type of mark you
did on the first end, then drill out the hole. Install the
joint and tighten the set screw, we recommend putting a
small tack weld on each side of the joint as a safety
precaution.
115. Install coupler to steering box using red loctite on set
screw.
116. Remove the half moon piece from your original fan
shroud and reuse it on the new fan shroud.
117. The lower fan shroud tab on the driver’s side might need
to be trimmed to clear the steering box.
118. A self tapping screw may also be required to secure the
fan shroud to the radiator. Be careful not to drill through
the radiator.
119. Slight notching of the fan shroud may be necessary to
clear the steering box mount.
120. The new radiator should be approximately 2” shorter
than the original radiator.
121. By this point you should have your Rock Assault™ or
OEM Toyota axle housing all painted and ready to
install six stud knuckles and brake components.
122. This is how your axle will look with the six stud knuckles,
spindle, and birfield installed.
123. Rock Assault™ axle housing with vented rotor and V6
caliper installed.
124. Attach leaf springs to axle with provided u-bolts.
Center the leaf spring center pin over the centering
hole on the spring perch and install u-bolt flip kit as
shown in the picture. Tighten by hand until snug.
Re-tighten after initial test drive.
125. Install provided hard caliper line and extended brake
line and hand tighten. Assembly should look similar to
the picture below when completed.
126. Install lower shock mount.
127. Finish welding shock mount and tighten shock mount
bolt. Assembled product should look similar to the
image below.
128. Place the steering wheel so that it is in the center of it's
movement left to right. Bolt on the pitman arm using the
stock nut and washer. Connect the left side of the steering
Drag Link to the front most hole in the right side steering
arm. Tie rod ends should have approximately 3 exposed
threads. Do not expose more than 1/2 of the tie rod end
threads as this can cause an unsafe driving condition.
With the truck on the ground, set the tow-in of the front
tires at 1/8". This is done by turning the Tie Rod with the
jam nuts loose. Measure the widest part of the tire at the
front and rear of the tire. Adjust the Tie Rod until the front
is 1/8" narrower than the rear.
Once completed, turn the steering wheel all the way left
and right. Verify that the wheels turn the same amount left
and right. If not, adjust the length of the drag link or
adjust the position of the pitman arm.
Tighten the pitman nut to 130 ft/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts
on the Tie Rod and Drag Link using an adjustable wrench.
128. Continued
128. Continued
129. Now you are ready to install your power steering
hose conversion kit. If you have a 2.7L, see steps
130-141. If you have a 3.4L, see steps 142-147.
130. Remove the OEM rack and pinion unit from the truck.
131. Remove the high pressure hose that ran from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion.
132. Remove the return line that ran from the rack and pinion to the power steering cooler.
133. Remove the return line that runs from the power steering cooler to the power steering reservoir. Now that everything has been removed you are now ready to install your new IFS power steering box and your hoses. See IFS box installation instructions for IFS box installation.
134. After installing your IFS gearbox, you will want to route, measure, and cut a piece of the blue low pressure return line from the IFS box to the factory power steering cooler.
131. Remove the high pressure hose that ran from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion.
132. Remove the return line that ran from the rack and pinion to the power steering cooler.
133. Remove the return line that runs from the power steering cooler to the power steering reservoir. Now that everything has been removed you are now ready to install your new IFS power steering box and your hoses. See IFS box installation instructions for IFS box installation.
134. After installing your IFS gearbox, you will want to route, measure, and cut a piece of the blue low pressure return line from the IFS box to the factory power steering cooler.
135. Next you will take your remaining length of low pressure
return line and run it from the power steering cooler to
the power steering reservoir.
136. Included in the kit is a “banjo eliminator” fitting, install
that into the outlet port of your power steering pump.
137. Install your provided high pressure line from the banjo
eliminator fitting to the newly installed IFS box.
138. Make sure all lines are tight and secure, fill with power steering fluid.
139. Start motor and began bleeding the power steering system while checking for leaks.
140. The system is bled and no leaks were found, you are ready for a test drive.
141. After the test drive, check again for leaks.
139. Start motor and began bleeding the power steering system while checking for leaks.
140. The system is bled and no leaks were found, you are ready for a test drive.
141. After the test drive, check again for leaks.
142. Remove factory high pressure and low pressure lines from the pump and reservoir.
143. Install supplied high pressure fitting into pump and low
pressure line onto reservoir.
144. Tighten hose clamp on low pressure line. Install high
pressure line and tighten.
145. Route hoses and show being sure to keep away from
moving parts.
146. Install hoses to steering box as shown and tighten.
147. Fill the system with fluid. Bleed steering system. Top off fluid, start engine, and finish bleeding. Once complete, top off fluid and test drive.
148. Before installing your driveline to your newly attached axle housing, you will need to install the provided t-case crossmember.
149. After the crossmember is installed, you will want to install your front driveline. Front or rear driveline may need to be lengthened or shortened depending on whether single or dual cases were installed and the size of the lift that was installed.
150. It's time to put the tires on the axle, please inspect everything to ensure that all welds are complete, all bolts are tightened, all fluids are refilled, and the truck is ready for a test drive.
151. After the test drive, please check all bolts for tightness, check all welds, check for leaks, and enjoy.
148. Before installing your driveline to your newly attached axle housing, you will need to install the provided t-case crossmember.
149. After the crossmember is installed, you will want to install your front driveline. Front or rear driveline may need to be lengthened or shortened depending on whether single or dual cases were installed and the size of the lift that was installed.
150. It's time to put the tires on the axle, please inspect everything to ensure that all welds are complete, all bolts are tightened, all fluids are refilled, and the truck is ready for a test drive.
151. After the test drive, please check all bolts for tightness, check all welds, check for leaks, and enjoy.
