- 1. Read all instructions completely and carefully before you begin.
2. Check to make sure the kit is complete and that no parts are missing. If anything is missing.
3. Park vehicle on a clean, dry, flat, level surface and block the tires so the vehicle can not roll in either direction.
4. Always use safety equipment: Wheel Chocks, Jack Stands, Safety Glasses, & Gloves.
1. Cable adjustment at the Hand Shifter:
The Hand Shifter needs to be able to fully engage in both the “Open” and “Lock” Shifter Gates,without over extending or over compressing the cable. Tighten the Bulkhead once the Cable's center ofthrow has been found. (Use the 2” Throw Cable supplied in the kit)
- 7/16” Open End Wrench
- 3/16” Allen Key
- 7/16” Socket
- Ratchet Wrench
- Extension Might Be Handy
- 15/16” Open End Wrench or Adjustable Wrench
2. Route The Cable:
Pick a path away from sharp objects and heat. Bends/corners should NOT be tighter than a 6” Center Line Radius. (may cause premature failure). Install the Differential Cable Bracket. (longer studs may be necessary) Use a couple zip ties to mock the cable in its location.Do NOT Install the Bulkhead thru the Differential Cable Bracket at this time. (installs in section #4).
- 10mm Socket
- 12mm Socket
- Ratchet Wrench
3. Install the Spur Gear and E-Clip on the Mechanical Actuator:
Spur Gear sourced from the OEM Electric Actuator.E-Clip supplied in the E-Racer kit. Do NOT install the O-Ring at this time. (unnecessary damage may occur during section #5)
4. Cable adjustment at the differential and Mechanical Actuator:
If the differential is out of the vehicle, this too can be done on the bench. If not, well you know where your heading next. Set the Mechanical Actuator in the differential. Do NOT bolt it in yet. Hold off on installing the O-Ring too. The Mechanical Actuator will be in and out of the differential a few times during the upcoming process. (Having an axle/tire free to spin allows for easy, accurate cable tuning).
Install the Bulkhead thru the Differential Cable Bracket. Rotate the Circular Lever counter clockwise to “full lock”. You will feel/hear the detent when the locker fully engages. Now cycle the Hand Shifter into the “lock” Gate.
5. Locating the .25” Hole for the Cable End that best splits the 103° sweep evenly:
There is a lot of adjustment built into the Circular Lever. The eight, .25” Holes move in increments of +/- 2.5° in relation to the Spur Gear Teeth. There are 18 teeth on the Spur Gear,making each tooth 20° apart.
The “Firing Order” of the eight, .25” Holes goes as follows to keep the holes from crowding:
- 1 this is 0° reference in relation to a Spur Gear Tooth
- 2 = +/- 5°
- 3 = +/- 10°
- 4 = +/- 15°
- 5 = +/- 2.5°
- 6 = +/- 7.5°
- 7 = +/- 12.5°
- 8 = +/- 17.5°
With the Mechanical Actuator and Hand Shifter both in the “lock” positions, begin test fitting the cable to the Circular Lever. Do this same step/process for the “open” positions before bolting the Cable End to the Circular Lever.
The cable should never bind or buckle when being cycled via the Hand Shifter. The key to this adjustment is to get the cable linkage to come close to the center of the lever without making contact.
6. Fine tuning:
Final cable tuning takes place at the Bulkheads and Cable Ends.Double check the cable's center of throw.Tighten all hardware when satisfied.Install and lubricate the o-ring.Bolt on the Mechanical Actuator.Use the remainder of the zip ties to secure the cable in its final location.
7. Check your work:
Test, check, and double check. Make certain that everything works correctly.With the vehicle turned off, and the newly cable locked axle elevated off the ground, the E-Racer Cable Conversion can be ran through its paces. Confirmation of the locker completely engaging and disengaging is a must before hitting the trail.
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