- ⅜ & ½” Ratchets w/ 12” Extension
- 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm Sockets
- 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm ¾”, 15/16” Wrenches
- Cutoff Wheel
- Plasma Cutter
- Paint Pen
- Tape Measure
- Floor Jack & Jack Stands
- Straight Edge
- C-Clamps (2)
- Gasket Scraper
- Drill & 5/16” Drill Bit (2.4 Engines Only)
- Allen Set
- Flathead Screwdriver
- 2 Qts Power Steering Fluid
- 1. Read all instructions completely and carefully before you begin.
2. Check to make sure the kit is complete and that no parts are missing. If anything is missing, please contact Trail-Gear at (559) 252-4950.
3. Park vehicle on a clean, dry, at, level surface and block the tires so the vehicle can not roll in either direction.
4. The installation of this kit will require modification to the frame and rear drive-line. Such modification should only be performed by a qualified technician.
5. This build is so in-depth that not every step could be covered in these instructions. If anything is not clear, please call our tech support line at 1.877.4X4.TOYS before proceeding. We have trained technicians waiting to help you.
1. Remove front bumper, skid plate, and splash guards.
128. At this point we are ready to set up our hi-steer. Place the steering wheel so that it is in the center of it's movement left to right. Bolt on the pitman arm using the stock nut and washer. Connect the left side of the steering Drag Link to the front most hole in the right side steering arm. Tie rod ends should have approximately 3 exposed threads. Do not expose more than 1/2 of the tie rod end threads as this can cause an unsafe driving condition. With the truck on the ground, set the tow-in of the front tires at 1/8". This is done by turning the Tie Rod with the jam nuts loose. Measure the widest part of the tire at the front and rear of the tire. Adjust the Tie Rod until the front is 1/8" narrower than the rear. Once completed, turn the steering wheel all the way left and right. Verify that the wheels turn the same amount left and right. If not, adjust the length of the drag link or adjust the position of the pitman arm. Tighten the pitman nut to 130 ft/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts on the Tie Rod and Drag Link using an adjustable wrench.
131. Remove the high pressure hose that ran from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion.
132. Remove the return line that ran from the rack and pinion to the power steering cooler.
133. Remove the return line that runs from the power steering cooler to the power steering reservoir. Now that everything has been removed you are now ready to install your new IFS power steering box and your hoses. See IFS box installation instructions for IFS box installation.
134. After installing your IFS gearbox, you will want to route, measure, and cut a piece of the blue low pressure return line from the IFS box to the factory power steering cooler.
139. Start motor and began bleeding the power steering system while checking for leaks.
140. The system is bled and no leaks were found, you are ready for a test drive.
141. After the test drive check again for leaks.
148. Before installing your driveline to your newly attached axle housing, you will need to install the provided t-case cross-member.
149. After the cross-member is installed, you will want to install your front driveline. Front or rear driveline may need to be lengthened or shortened depending on whether single or dual cases were installed and the size of the lift that was installed.
150. After putting the tires on the axle, please inspect everything to ensure that all welds are complete, all bolts are tightened, all fluids are refilled, and the truck is ready for a test drive.
151. After the test drive, please check all bolts for tightness, check all welds, check for leaks, and enjoy.