Part # 2051170 – Solid Axle Swap Front Lift Kit(+3″) – (1995-2004) 4WD Tacoma Kit “A” Non Axle-Specific

To open a printable PDF version of this instruction CLICK HERE
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Tools Needed:

  • ⅜ & ½” Ratchets w/ 12” Extension
  • 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm Sockets
  • 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 21mm ¾”, 15/16” Wrenches
  • Loctite
  • Cutoff Wheel
  • Welder
  • Grinder
  • Plasma Cutter
  • Paint Pen
  • Tape Measure
  • Floor Jack & Jack Stands




  • Hammer
  • Level
  • Straight Edge
  • Punch
  • C-Clamps (2)
  • Gasket Scraper
  • Drill & 5/16” Drill Bit (2.4 Engines Only)
  • Allen Set
  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • 2 Qts Power Steering Fluid

Installation Notes:

    1. Read all instructions completely and carefully before you begin.

    2. Check to make sure the kit is complete and that no parts are missing. If anything is missing, please contact Trail-Gear at (559) 252-4950.

    3. Park vehicle on a clean, dry, at, level surface and block the tires so the vehicle can not roll in either direction.

    4. The installation of this kit will require modification to the frame and rear drive-line. Such modification should only be performed by a qualified technician.

    5. This build is so in-depth that not every step could be covered in these instructions. If anything is not clear, please call our tech support line at 1.877.4X4.TOYS before proceeding. We have trained technicians waiting to help you.

Installation Instructions:

1. Remove front bumper, skid plate, and splash guards.

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2. On vehicles with a 3.4L V6 engine that have a radiator that hangs below the frame like shown, you will need to replace the radiator with the following part numbers. (Performance Radiator #1774, Napa # APD 2740)
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3. Mark the edge of the radiator for future use.
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4. Remove the radiator.
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5. Unbolt and remove all IFS components.

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6. Mark the body mount as close to the weld as possible.
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7. Cut the body mount along the previously drawn line and grind the weld down. You want an approximately 1/4” gap between the frame and the edge of the mounting bracket when finished.
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8. Cut the inner support plate of the body mount 1/2 of the way in.


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9. Slide front hanger mount onto the frame rails. Mount hanger locating jig to the body mount and slide it all the way forward.
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10. Use a straight edge to ensure that the mount is flush with the jig.

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11. Make sure the mount is square and straight to the truck.
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12. Tack the mount in place. Verify the mount is still straight and weld it completely.
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13. Weld the area shown below.
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14. Weld the area shown below.
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15. Cut the brake line tab off as shown for future use.


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16. After all of the other brackets have been unbolted or removed, brackets 1, 2, 3, and 4 will need to be removed with a torch or plasma cutter.
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17. Grind the frame clean.


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18. If you have a 2.7L engine, start here to remove the oil pan. If you have a 3.4L engine, skip to step 36. Remove the dust shield.
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19. Remove the oil pan.
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20. Remove dipstick bracket hardware.
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21. Remove the stock dipstick.
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22. Apply Ultra Grey to bottom of freeze plug.
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23. Place freeze plug in stock dipstick hole.
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24. Lightly tap freeze plug to secure it into place.
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25. Locate the small freeze plug approximately 2” behind motor mount.
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26. Using a punch, remove the freeze plug.

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27. Install the new dipstick tube into the block using ultra grey at the mating surface.

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28. Mark and drill a hole in the motor mount bracket to mount the dipstick tube. We drilled a 5/16” hole and used an 8mm bolt.
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29. Fasten the dipstick tube to the motor mount.
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30. Remove the stock strainer and install the new one.
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31. Using a razor, clean the oil pan mating surface on the block.
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32. Apply a bead of ultra grey to the oil pan mating surface.
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33. Install the new oil pan. The strainer now sits towards the back of the truck.
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34. Re-install the dust shield.

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35. Install the drain plug with gasket.


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36. If you have a 3.4L engine, follow these instructions to replace your oil pan. Remove dust shield.
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37. Remove the oil pan.

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38. Remove the stock strainer and replace it with the new one.
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39. Using a razor, clean the oil pan mating surface on the block.


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40. Mark the stock dipstick 1/8” below the full line and cut off the excess. The stock full level on the dipstick will still be used and 6 1/2 quarts of oil are used.
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41. Re-install the dip stick into the block.

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42. Apply a bead of ultra grey to the oil pan mating surface.
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43. Install the new oil pan. The strainer now sits towards the back of the truck.
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44. Re-install the dust shield. The circled bolt will need to be shortened by 3/8”.
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45. Install the drain plug with gasket.
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46. Weld off the body mount.
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47. If you have a 3.4L motor, remove the O2 sensor above resonator and follow step 48, otherwise, skip to step 49.
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48. Remove the resonator to give yourself room to cut out the frame rail for the shackle mount.

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49. The body mount modification is located under the floorboard for the shackle mount. Mark 2 1/4” up from the bottom of the front side of the body mount bracket. Mark 2 1/2” from the outside of the body mount towards the centered of the body mount. Follow factory edge and draw lines as shown.
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50. Cut along the lines and remove the bracket as shown. Grind the frame clean.




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51. Measure from the inside of the face of the front hanger mount 45 7/8” and mark the frame. The mark should be in the center of the big hole in the template. Align the frame jig as shown with the large hole facing the outside of the vehicle. Make sure the rear of the jig is in contact with the frame. Tack weld it in place.
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52. A small gap between the frame and the front of the jig is normal due to frame curvature.




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53. Mark the frame through the holes in the bottom of the jig.
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54. Outline the jig on the inside of the frame as shown.
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55. Cut the larger hole on the outside of the frame with the jig in place with a hole saw or plasma cutter and then remove the jig.
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56. Use a straight edge to connect the lines made with the jig like the image below.

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57. Cut the frame with a plasma cutter along the inside of the line, clean slag off of the frame.
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58. Cut the internal frame support to be flush with the previous cut and grind clean.
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59. Remove the brake line clip from the frame on the driver’s side above the shackle location.



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60. Install shackles into the shackle mount and clamp into frame with alignment bar installed to make sure the shackles are square. Make sure the shackles are 29” center to center. Note: Manual transmissions can run the alignment tube through shackle box mount.
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61. Below is an example of incorrect fitment. Notice the mount sticking out below the frame.

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62. Below is the correct fitment of the mount. Notice how the bottom of the mount is even and almost flush against the bottom of the frame.
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63. Below is an example of incorrect fitment. The shackles need to be parallel.
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64. Below is the correct fitment of the shackles. Notice how they are parallel.
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65. Once the shackles are straight and at the correct distance apart (29” center of shackle to center of shackle), tack weld the tube into the frame.
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66. Once the shackle mount is tacked into the frame, clamp the support plate to the frame and tack it into place.
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67. Weld the support plate to the frame.

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68. Remove poly bushing and weld the shackle tube to the frame.
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69. Install the shackle mount boxing bracket on top of the shackle mount and weld it into place.
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70. Weld the shackle mount to the bottom of the frame.
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71. Grind the weld smooth.


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72. Place the bottom frame support bracket on the bottom of the frame and tack the rear portion to the frame.
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73. Clamp the front portion of the support to the frame to form it to the frame curve and tack it into place.
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74. Finish welding the bottom support plate.


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75. For 3” springs we recommend starting off with the front hanger 44 1/2” from the shackle bolt center to bolt center and move it approximately 3/8” forward for 4” springs and 3/4” forward for 5” springs. Note, these are only recommendations to verify location.
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76. Tack weld the spring hanger into place, centering it upon the mount.



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77. Install springs and axle. Place the weight of the vehicle on the springs to ensure proper shackle angle is achieved. We recommend a 90° shackle angle during initial setup to allow for spring break-in. If so, move to step XXX, if not, take the weight of of the springs and move the hanger to achieve desired shackle angle. Once correct, move to step XXX.
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78. With weight still on springs, clamp the steering box in desired location and mark the front hole.





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79. Make sure the tie rod and drag link will not make contact when the vehicle flexes.

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80. Clamp the frame plate the the frame, centering it on the frame and aligning it with the previously marked hole.
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81. Using the frame plate as a template.Drill the 2 marked holes in the frame to 1/2”. Be sure to drill straight through both sides of the frame.
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82. On the inside of the frame only, drill holes to 3/4” to allow the sleeves to be installed in the frame.

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83. Install (3) 1/2” bolts through the previously drilled holes. Install sleeves over bolts and inner frame plate as shown.
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84. Tack weld the inner frame plate and sleeves in place.

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85. Tack weld the frame plate to the frame and then weld in sections to avoid frame warping. At this time you can also weld off inner frame plate and sleeves.
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86. On the passenger side, position and clamp the frame plates to the frame, aligning the rectangle hole and centering the rest of the place on the frame.
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87. You may want to plug weld the frame holes shown.
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88. Tack weld the frame plate to the frame and remove the clamps.
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89. We recommend welding the frame plate onto the frame in steps, allowing the frame to cool to prevent warping. First, weld the frame plate inner holes.
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90. Next, weld the front and rear and the angled section of the frame plate to the frame.

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91. Finish welding the frame plate to the frame.

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92. Mark the inner fender well as shown in the picture below. Be careful not to cut out the pinch weld.
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93. Cut the inner fender well along the previously marked cut lines.


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94. Set the vehicle on jack stands and install shock hoops and shocks. At ride height, shock should be centered in shock hoop and perpendicular to the floor, not slanted forwards or backwards.
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94. Continued
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95. Install shock hoop support tubes.
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96. During full extension of the suspension it is normal for the shock to angle forward slightly because the shackle allows the axle to swing forward.
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97. Weld previously cut brake line tab to frame as shown.

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98. Tack weld the body mount gussets into place.

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99. Fully weld the body mount gussets to the frame and body mount bracket.
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100. Flex the truck until the springs are nearly flat in the front passenger corner. Place the bump stop extension against the frame. Center it with the bump stop and mark the frame and extension. Some trimming of the bump-stop extension may be required.
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101. Weld the bump stop extension to the frame.





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102. At this point, all welding should be completed. You can now paint the frame and raw metal parts as desired.
103. Install the IFS steering box.
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104. Remove the steering shaft dust cover located behind the brake pedal.
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105. Remove the steering shaft and coupler from the column.
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106. Remove the seal housing from the firewall.
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107. Remove the seal from the seal housing.
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108. Install the factory seal from your seal housing into the supplied seal housing. Paint the housing.
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109. Install the seal housing into the firewall.

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110. Install the supplied steering box coupler to the supplied steering shaft. Tighten long set screw to make a mark on shaft. Remove the coupler.
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111. Using the previously made mark, drill one side of the shaft out to 3/8”.

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112. Once the hole is drilled, install the coupler using red Loctite on the set screws.
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113. Loosen the set screw to allow for adjustment.

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114. Slide the steering shaft through the seal housing and install to the new coupler and column as shown. Make sure to use red Loctite on all set screws.
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114. Continued - Note: 95.5 Tacoma steering shafts are a different spline and size than 96-04. Because of this, when installing the steering joint in a 95.5, you will get a 9/16” x 3/4” double-d steering joint. The 9/16” end will have no splines, this is the side of the steering joint that you will put over the splined section of your steering rod.

Use the set screw to make the same type of mark you did on the first end, then drill out the hole. Install the joint and tighten the set screw, we recommend putting a small tack weld on each side of the joint as a safety precaution.
115. Install coupler to steering box using red Loctite on set screw.
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116. Remove the half moon piece from your original fan shroud and reuse it on the new fan shroud.
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117. The lower fan shroud tab on the driver’s side might need to be trimmed to clear the steering box.

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118. A self tapping screw may also be required to secure the fan shroud to the radiator. Be careful not to drill through the radiator.
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119. Slight notching of the fan shroud may be necessary to clear the steering box mount.
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120. The new radiator should be approximately 2” shorter than the original radiator.
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121. By this point you should have your Rock Assault™ or OEM Toyota axle housing all painted and ready to install six stud knuckles and brake components.
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122. This is how your axle will look with the six stud knuckles, spindle, and birfield installed.


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123. Rock Assault™ axle housing with vented rotor and V6 caliper installed.



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124. Attach leaf springs to axle with provided u-bolts. Center the leaf spring center pin over the centering hole on the spring perch and install u-bolt flip kit as shown in the picture. Tighten by hand until snug. Re-tighten after initial test drive.
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125. Install provided hard caliper line and extended brake line and hand tighten. Assembly should look similar to the picture below when completed.
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126. Install lower shock mount.


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127. Finish welding shock mount and tighten shock mount bolt. Assembled product should look similar to the image below.
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128. At this point we are ready to set up our hi-steer. Place the steering wheel so that it is in the center of it's movement left to right. Bolt on the pitman arm using the stock nut and washer. Connect the left side of the steering Drag Link to the front most hole in the right side steering arm. Tie rod ends should have approximately 3 exposed threads. Do not expose more than 1/2 of the tie rod end threads as this can cause an unsafe driving condition. With the truck on the ground, set the tow-in of the front tires at 1/8". This is done by turning the Tie Rod with the jam nuts loose. Measure the widest part of the tire at the front and rear of the tire. Adjust the Tie Rod until the front is 1/8" narrower than the rear. Once completed, turn the steering wheel all the way left and right. Verify that the wheels turn the same amount left and right. If not, adjust the length of the drag link or adjust the position of the pitman arm. Tighten the pitman nut to 130 ft/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts on the Tie Rod and Drag Link using an adjustable wrench.

128. Continued
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128. Continued
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129. Now you are ready to install your power steering hose conversion kit. If you have a 2.7L, see steps 130-141. If you have a 3.4L, see steps 142-147.
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130. Remove the OEM rack and pinion unit from the truck.

131. Remove the high pressure hose that ran from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion.

132. Remove the return line that ran from the rack and pinion to the power steering cooler.

133. Remove the return line that runs from the power steering cooler to the power steering reservoir. Now that everything has been removed you are now ready to install your new IFS power steering box and your hoses. See IFS box installation instructions for IFS box installation.

134. After installing your IFS gearbox, you will want to route, measure, and cut a piece of the blue low pressure return line from the IFS box to the factory power steering cooler.
135. Next you will take your remaining length of low pressure return line and run it from the power steering cooler to the power steering reservoir.
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136. Included in the kit is a “banjo eliminator” fitting, install that into the outlet port of your power steering pump.
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137. Install your provided high pressure line from the banjo eliminator fitting to the newly installed IFS box.
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138. Make sure all lines are tight and secure, fill with power steering fluid.

139. Start motor and began bleeding the power steering system while checking for leaks.

140. The system is bled and no leaks were found, you are ready for a test drive.

141. After the test drive check again for leaks.
142. Remove factory high pressure and low pressure lines from the pump and reservoir.
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143. Install supplied high pressure fitting into pump and low pressure line onto reservoir.
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144. Tighten hose clamp on low pressure line. Install high pressure line and tighten.
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145. Route hoses and show being sure to keep away from moving parts.
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146. Install hoses to steering box as shown and tighten.
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147. Fill the system with fluid. Bleed steering system. Top off fluid, start engine, and finish bleeding. Once complete, top off fluid and test drive.

148. Before installing your driveline to your newly attached axle housing, you will need to install the provided t-case cross-member.

149. After the cross-member is installed, you will want to install your front driveline. Front or rear driveline may need to be lengthened or shortened depending on whether single or dual cases were installed and the size of the lift that was installed.

150. After putting the tires on the axle, please inspect everything to ensure that all welds are complete, all bolts are tightened, all fluids are refilled, and the truck is ready for a test drive.

151. After the test drive, please check all bolts for tightness, check all welds, check for leaks, and enjoy.